je vais faire un petit tour

www.flickr.com

dimanche, février 26, 2006

Ce soir, un bateau rentrait dans la baie de Valparaiso. D'où, j'étais, a la terrasse d'un restaurant coopératif de pécheur en surplomb de la mer, je le voyais distinctement. Ce doit être formidable d'arriver par la mer de nuit ici. Apres la lueur lointaine, on doit identifier clairement les différents cerros (collines) grâce aux saignées de lumière qui les séparent et qui descendent jusqu'à la mer. Une fois a quai, l'appel de la ville et de son activité nocturne doit être irrésistible et, a l'ivresse du grand large, va s'ajouter l'ivresse de tous les lieux de fête et de musique qui se partagent les petites rues près du port. A se balader dans ces rues, on passe de la salsa au jazz, du tango au rock, de la samba a la tecno. Toutes les musiques sont ici. C'est un port et tout est accepte ici, rien n'étonne, comme dans tous les grands ports. Les habitants ont appris a recevoir ce qui vient du large sans a priori, sans jugement. C'est ce qui fait la richesse des ports, de celui-ci en particulier.
Apres, les membres de l'equipage pourront deambuler de jour dans le marchhe a poisson, ils traverseront la place Sotomayor et puis monteront par l'ascenseur vers le Cerro Alegre. La haut, ils auront peut etre la chance de croiser Antonio, petit bonhomme de 85 ans, qui se fait un plaisir d'accompagner certains touristes dans le spetites rues et sur les paseo du centre. Journaliste, poete, ecrivain, enchanteur de Valparaiso, il connait tout de son histoire et aime a la conte. Peut etre connaitront-ils aussi l'aube sur la baie avec les cerro qui s'illumine et puis le mercado municipal avec destas de papas, d'oignons, d'oranges ou de tomates qui sont decharges des cammionettes a dos d'homme. Ou bien deambuleront-ils sur une des places arborees entre les joueurs d'echec, de cartes ou de dominos, le marche au puces avec de vieux exemplaires de l'Illustration a trois fois rien, les enfants qui font la course autour du monument central, pilotant leur voiture a pedale ou simplement, ceux qui restent sur leur banc a laisser le temps passe tranquillement en parlant, lisant ou laissant leur regard se perdre sur des scenes insignifiantes. Ils monteront certainement a La Sebastiana chez Pablo Neruda, l'esprit du poete y regne encore. Peut etre sentiront-ils un des ces petits tremblements de terre de quelques seconde, court mais bien reel et impressionnant quant on a pas l'habitude.
Est-il besoin de préciser que je me suis plu ici ? Toutes ces petites ruelles colorées, ces murs peint par des artistes, ces paseos d'où l'ont peu admirer la baie de haut, construit a l'origine pour pouvoir passer d'un Cerro a l'autre lorsque la mer envahissait le quartier portuaire, et puis les habitants toujours près a rendre service, a expliquer et avec le sourire.
Je pars demain. Je quitte Valaparaiso et le Chili par la même occasion. Je vais passer la cordillère des Andes par son endroit le plus haut pour rejoindre l'Argentine et sa région nord. Une autre aventure... Je quitte le Chili avec un petit pincement au coeur. J'aime ce pays. J'aime ces habitants. Je reviendrai, je l'ai promis. Hasta Luego Francis, Mirta, Mercedes, Pepe, Ana Maria, Francisco, Don Guido, Jeronimo, Marcella, Juanita, Pedro et tous ceux dont je ne me souviens pas du nom... Y que se vayan bien...
Quant a vous prenez soin de vous
A tout a l'heure

PS : Pour les photos, ça s'ameliore de jour en jour. En attendant le lien direct du blog, vous pouvez aller a cette adresse. Il y en a plein de nouvelles... http://www.flickr.com/photos/patbenoiton/

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